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The continuous video conferences during the epidemic made people suffer from PTSD, and the meeting invitation popped up on the screen.
But if it was an invitation from Maison Margiela and John Galliano personally gave you an online lesson, would you not wait to join the meeting?
Every July and January, this huge dream-making machine called "High-definition Fashion Week" will start to operate regularly. If the meaning of ordinary clothing is to cover the body, then the meaning of haute couture is more like exploring the boundaries of fashion as an art form. Every year of high-definition fashion week, brands will spare no expense, regardless of manpower, and use the power of the entire fashion house to create an extremely gorgeous but not lasting limited-time illusion.
and this year is a special year for all brands participating in Haute Couture Week. Due to the impact of the epidemic, the dream venues and gorgeous pomps used by fashion houses have all failed. Fairies have lost their fairy sticks. How can we weave dreams?
Maison Margiela'Artisanal' Co-ed Collection 2020 AW documentary SWALK
Each brand gave their own answers, and some brands let models in Chinese clothes in the forest Playful, some brands put the lens infinitely close to every delicate stitch, and in this "Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea" scene, Maison Margiela's answer sheet is still considered special.
Maison Margiela’s creative director John Galliano and Nick Knight (who just finished the website for Kanye West) fashion industry model worker, present a 52-minute documentary together, faithfully recreated one in the form of video conference records The advanced customization series gradually evolved from the concept to the landing.
John Galliano, who has gone through ups and downs, can still bear the title of a genius. The 52-minute film length is not enough to expand every source of his inspiration in detail. Many shots have included details With a lot of stories.
Voicer made notes for everyone, and disassembled these details one by one. Let us accept Maison Margiela's video conference invitation together to witness the birth of a high-level customization series.
[ Meeting Records]
John Galla#The whole video conference screenshot with the employees4 The first inspiration of the series was Gladys Deacon, a legendary woman named "Sphynx".
Gladys Deacon was born in an extremely wealthy family. He looks good and has no worries about food and clothing. Gladys Deacon's life should be envied by everyone, but her father was arrested and imprisoned for killing her mother's lover. , The life of this heavenly girl wrapped in gold and jade is now shrouded in the tragedy of Greece.
Giovanni Boldini's portrait for Gladys Deacon
Gladys Deacon has rare beauty and wisdom. Rodin made sculptures for her, Giovanni Boldini painted portraits of her, even Prue Sturt once praised her: "I have never seen a girl with such beauty, such outstanding talent and such kindness and charm." But beauty is not always a gift of fate, and sometimes it may be disguised as a gift. The curse of the gift.
Paul César Helleu's portrait for Gladys Deacon
When she was 14 years old, she fell in love with the surviving Duke of Marlborough IX only by rumors, when she was introduced to the Duke at the age of 19 , Not only the Duke, but even the Duke’s original wife at the time was impressed by her charm.
When Gladys Deacon was forty years old, he finally married someone she fell in love with when she was fourteen. She finally married the Duke when she was 18 years old, but found out that the Duke was not what she had imagined. She even had to keep a revolver in her bedroom to prevent the Duke from approaching. The sphinx statue based on Gladys Deacon in the duke’s mansion is the only testimony of the pair's love.
Beautiful, fragile, and tragic, Gladys Deacon's story paved the whole series with a poetic and sad gray tone. In the portrait made by Giovanni Boldini, Gladys Deacon's costume also provided the basis for the entire series.
In the spring and summer of 1986, John Galliano's eponymous brand released a series called "Fallen Angels". At the moment when the well-dressed model was about to walk on the runway, John Galliano suddenly thought: What effect would it have if the clothes on the model were wet?
John Galliano 1986 SS, Fallen Angels
The white and soft cloth becomes transparent after being wet, and it clings to the model’s skin tightly. The divinity and desire are parasitic in the same tool. The flesh is pure and depraved. This improvisational magical pen has now become the inspiration for John Galliano again.
John Galliano is not afraid to quote himself, but this time he wants to play something different. What's the point of using water to make a wet effect? If you can create a wet effect without a drop of water, this is the "highest form of clothing" that John Galliano wants to impact.
The arc-shaped tailoring can achieve a unique drape effect. There is a special craft of arc cutting. The fabrics cut along the arc-shaped pattern are stitched together to form an elegant and draped effect, romantic and classical, just like clothes worn by Greek gods.
Tailoring full of drape is just the first step. In order to imitate the effect of the fabric attached to the body after being wet, John Galliano put a layer of transparent fabric similar to stockings on the outside of these skirts, so that the inner skirt closely fits the skin. After putting on the model's upper body, John Galliano fine-tuned every wrinkle again, so that he had a "wet body" look that looked wet but didn't need a drop of water.
Blitz Kids representative Steve Strange also appeared in the documentary
At the end of the 1970s and early 1980s, the Blitz club in Covent Garden, London was The most fashionable place in town.
may be because Blitz’s location is right between the Central School of Art and Design and Saint Martin’s School of Art (the predecessor of Central Saint Martin’s College in London). This club has become a fixture for fashion loversThe strongest and craziest proving ground, Blitz's regulars are also known as The Blitz Kids, and John Galliano himself was also a member of this group at the time.
sequins, feathers, giant headdresses... No matter how gorgeous and absurd costumes are in the eyes of Blitz Kids, they are all standard dresses after nightfall. Everything can be accepted, everything can happen. On the night of Blitz, the only rule is that there are no rules.
At that time, a costume shop called Charles Fox in London closed due to poor management. All gorgeous costumes and props were sold at very low prices. For Blitz Kids, this sale is like an extra Christmas out of thin air. They bought these clothes and props and re-disassembled them and transformed them into the most fashionable dress in the club. The new romantic movement was born. .
Maison Margiela's high-end series this season also inherited the spirit of this transformation. The team bought cheap clothes from second-hand clothing stores on the streets of Paris. After John Galliano's deconstruction and reshaping, these originally vulgar costumes have been completely reborn. Who can tell that Leon Dame's dress was transformed from an ordinary Zara suit?
The makeup for this high-definition show was done by the famous makeup artist Pat McGrath. During a video conference with the entire team, Pat McGrath, who painted his makeup and fluently, appeared to be a little confused. He accidentally shared the screen that should not be shared. It turns out that the master will be a little panicked in the face of technology products?? ??
Serge Lutens shot for Shiseido, the model is Yamaguchi Xiaoyezi
Pat McGrath designed makeup
In the makeup design, Pat McGrath is closely linked to The Blitz Kids as a source of inspiration, and also draws on their makeup. At the same time, you can also see Serge Lutens and Yamaguchi Sayako's ghostly charm in her makeup design. Fire, ocean, and gravel can coexist in the makeup she designed.
Eugene Souleiman, who is in charge of the hair style, is certainly not an idler. The reference given by John Galliano in his hairstyle is the veiled marble statue of the Virgin. Giovanni Strazza's masterpiece "Masked Virgin" is clearly a hard and smooth marble product, but it magically restores the light and soft texture of the tulle, and it seems to be able to feel the air flowing by the cheeks.
Eugene Souleiman puts the models on soft and mysterious chiffon masks, while the hair looks wet again. It is natural, like a group of nymphs living in the mountains and forests. .
John Galliano has always wanted to add a few prints to the series, but his first few attempts without exception failed, and he never reached him. The ideal effect in mind. At the time when he was unable to do anything, an unprecedented idea suddenly appeared in his mind: If you want to print, then you must make a print with a purpose.
John Galliano stacked layers of tulle to make a bright redColored gauze skirt. The top layer of the gauze skirt is pasted with hundreds of scattered silver tapes.
The "purpose" print in John Galliano's mouth actually refers to projection. When the letters are projected onto the red veil, the silver tape reflects the luster, showing a different luster. When the model wore the finished product and danced between the light and shadow, even Nick Knight, who was used to seeing the market, couldn't help but praise.
This is indeed a fleeting and unpreservable print, but Nick Knight’s documentary permanently seals this flowing print together with its birth process in the image.
The headquarters of Maison Margiela at 163 Saint Maur Road in Paris is a typical Ottoman-style building, and during the preparations for the Haute Couture Week, this quaint building was surrounded There are always several drones hovering to make the surrounding residents look at it.
These drones are not secret spies sent by commercial competitors to inquire about the news, but Nick Knight is accumulating material for this documentary.
John Galliano felt that after the outbreak, people began to desire truth more than ever. The few words about creative inspiration in media press releases seem flat and weak, and he hopes to present his most authentic creative process to the public in an unfinished way. So when he invited Nick Knight to make this documentary, his only requirement was: to provide the audience with an immersive perspective that is almost prying.
To achieve this effect, Nick Knight used a lot of different shooting methods. The drone hovering by the office bed, the GoPro worn by the model and the staff, and the Zoom video conference recording...It is precisely because of these shooting techniques that we can see precious images that we would never see in normal days.
In the final film, Nick Knight even used a thermal lens. When the colors are flipped, everything seems to be a little distorted and full of surreal meaning, but the structure of the clothes has become clearer than ever before. Every texture and every pile of folds is extremely real. It seems that under the thermal lens, we have stripped away the appearance of fashion and approached its essence.
What is the meaning of advanced customization in this age?
It used to be a tool used by the elite to show their status, and it is a high-level taste belonging to a very small circle. But from a commercial point of view, although high-end custom clothing is expensive, if you include the high cost of manpower and material resources, the profit is not as rich as the ready-made clothing. Under the current trend of democratization of fashion, do these Chinese clothes that are priced at six or seven figures still have any meaning?
John Galliano gave his answer in the documentary. Fashion designers usually have to create dozens of looks in a short time when preparing ready-to-wear collections. Under the pressure of such a workload, they cannot think well and make technological breakthroughs.
Haute Couture Fashion Week is the only opportunity to explore creative techniques and innovation with time. In this season of high school, he solved how to create a wet feeling without a drop of water, so he can apply this technique to mass-produced garments in the next season.
Gaoding is the spire of the entire fashion pyramid. The creativity bred from it is continuously transmitted to the base of the pyramid, affecting more people, and its radiation is what we need for advanced customization in this era. the reason.
gathers the world’s most talented creatives and the most skilled craftsmen to turn the most whimsical fantasies into reality. Think carefully, every piece of advanced customization is oneA miracle that turned the impossible into possible.
The title of this documentary is S.W.A.L.K. It is the epilogue used by soldiers in writing letters during World War II, which means "seal with a kiss of love". This documentary is a love letter written by John Galliano to Haute Couture. It is our luck to have the opportunity to read this love letter.
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